Pattern Drafting

ARTIST INSTRUCTOR: LELA STAIRS

February 4-6 and 11-13, 2022

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Participants learn how to interpret a two-dimensional design and render it into a three-dimensional costume pattern in this double-weekend workshop. Stratford Festival Cutter Lela Stairs teaches the skills of interpreting sketches, drafting patterns, mocking up blocks and cutting a costume. This course is ideal for those working in costume or wardrobe departments, and those who build costumes for community theatre.

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Lesson Outline

1.      Friday (1/2 day) - What is cutting? Introduce block development/custom patterns for actors; examine sketches and discuss sketch interpretation; practice taking proper measurements (which measurements and why); look at body types and discover how patterns work. 

         Skills Learned: what is a cutter? the importance of measuring properly; the differences in body types; sketch interpretation

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2.      Saturday - Finish up with measurements and pattern drafting all day. Establish size and ease, dart manipulation; examine different sketches and see how they translate to a bodice; begin to establish style lines and period features within your basic block; begin cutting out and mocking up the loose-fitting bodice in muslin.

         Skills Learned: drafting, dart manipulation, style lines that are period specific, translating a sketch to a pattern

3.      Sunday - Continue cutting out mockups and completing pattern drafting. Sew mock ups and begin fitting them (this is establishing a base for size and shape); discuss fittings and the importance of them, and learn what to look for in fittings (drag lines, placement of seams and darts).

         Skills Learned: drafting, cutting out a mock up and why, discussing fit

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Home work during the week (not compulsory): Finish sewing mock up, if incomplete. Complete drafting to bring to class for the next weekend.

1.      Friday (1/2 day) - Complete fittings. Continue to sew and fit any bodices that were not complete. Return to patterns for pattern alterations and adjustments; talk about fitting room etiquette.

Skills Learned: fitting, fitting etiquette, pattern adjustments

2.      Saturday - Return to blocks to start looking at how that basic block turns into a period bodice, corset, blouse. Start interpreting a sketch into the blocks and spend the day looking at different ways to manipulate the block; draft new patterns from the blocks; if time allows, begin cutting out mock up for costume bodice.  

Skills Learned:  changing style lines on your patterns to suit a period or design

3.      Sunday - Continue drafting and mocking up costume bodice. Do fittings if time allows; wrap up and conclude; option: introduce draping, if time allows and participants are ready to advance.

Skills Learned: seeing the changes made to a basic bodice block to suit period/design; draping, if time allows

These will be included with the letter of welcome to participants in early January.

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